411 can be the darndest thing. Sometimes I call and the operator is halfway across the country, and she has no record of the listing I am requesting. That's exactly what happened this weekend. I was on the West Side with my companion, trying to take a cab to Yakitori Totto, and according to the operator, the restaurant didn't exist.
Fortunately, she did have a listing for Yakitori Torys on the East Side. (FYI: Yakitori Totto, as of this writing, does indeed exist.) Torys happens to be related to Totto, so it was all good. And how good it was!
For those of you who are unfamiliar with this grilled chicken heaven, the chefs skewer everything but the squawk -the heart, the gizzards, something called the "oyster" that is cut from the thigh. But there's a lot more, for more conservative eaters and even for those who don't prefer chicken.
My companion and I ordered some plum wine and proceeded to look through the multitude of dishes (portions are appetizer-size, so we recommend that you order a million of them). First we tried the shutou, tiny white bites of mozzarella painted with salty tuna liver (yes, we thought this sounded a little strange). Then came an arugula salad with crunchy dried baby sardines and a dressing of organic poached egg, poured on at the last minute. We also ordered a pot of cook-as-you-watch tofu, which would not be ready for 25 minutes.
Grill time! These selections were our favorites: juicy miso-marinated chicken breast, grilled garlic, jumbo skin-on shrimp, skewers holding five luscious shishito peppers with miso jam, and natto kinchaku (crispy tofu pockets filled with hot soybeans). Everything was piping hot.
By now, our fresh tofu was finally ready. We dipped the hot soybean custard in soy sauce and deliberated over dessert, which would be - more tofu! We chose the apricot kernel tofu dessert, and just in case we grew tired of tofu, iced bananas in sweet coconut milk. (Actually, I liked the apricot tofu the most.)
Yakitori Torys: 248 East 52nd St., (212) 813-1800. This information should be accessible via 411!
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Friday, October 26, 2007
Sweets News
If you picked up this week's New Yorker, you probably found the Extreme Chocolate article quite interesting! (If you didn't purchase the magazine, you can still see an online slideshow of an artisanal chocolate plantation in Brazil.)
The article got me thinking about chocophile Clay Gordon, who is truly one of the world's most enthusiastic devotees of the cacao bean. Clay has just written a new book, Discover Chocolate: The Ultimate Guide to Buying, Tasting, and Enjoying Fine Chocolate, which he'll be signing at Alice's Tea Cup (156 East 64th St.) on November 7th from 6:30-8:30 p.m.
The article got me thinking about chocophile Clay Gordon, who is truly one of the world's most enthusiastic devotees of the cacao bean. Clay has just written a new book, Discover Chocolate: The Ultimate Guide to Buying, Tasting, and Enjoying Fine Chocolate, which he'll be signing at Alice's Tea Cup (156 East 64th St.) on November 7th from 6:30-8:30 p.m.
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Pan Chan Paradise: Kunjip Restaurant
I can think of few activities as satisfying as dredging up the crunchy bits of rice at the bottom of the heated stone pot that gobdol bibimbob is served in. But one such activity is feasting on pan chan: the assortment of complimentary cold vegetable dishes one is served at a Korean restaurant. Today, my companion and I enjoyed both activities at Kunjip!
They were very generous with the pan chan, and there was a nice balance of mild and spicy. The milder dishes included garlic zucchini and potato salad, while the spicy ones included green beans in a sweet barbecue sauce, kimchi, and some type of leafy green in red pepper soy sauce.
The edge was now taken off my hunger, but I dove into the appetizer: a squid, scallion and scallop stuffed pancake that managed to be glutinous and crispy at once. Scallion soy sauce was perfect for dipping. I think this was my favorite dish of the meal.
Next came the gobdol bibimbob: stone bowls of rice with various toppings and red pepper paste. My companion ordered the ground beef bowl, while I ordered the vegetarian version. I was a bit disappointed that it didn't come with a raw egg on top, as I love to watch it cook and mix in the yolk. But the waiter noted my evident disappointment and brought me a bowl of steamed egg. It wasn't quite the same, but I appreciated the gesture. My dish did contain an ample amount of zucchini, spinach and shreds of shiitake. (My companion would have preferred more beef.)
But with all of those wonderful pan chan, it's really splitting hairs to complain.
Kunjip Restaurant: 9 West 32nd St., (212) 216-9487.
They were very generous with the pan chan, and there was a nice balance of mild and spicy. The milder dishes included garlic zucchini and potato salad, while the spicy ones included green beans in a sweet barbecue sauce, kimchi, and some type of leafy green in red pepper soy sauce.
The edge was now taken off my hunger, but I dove into the appetizer: a squid, scallion and scallop stuffed pancake that managed to be glutinous and crispy at once. Scallion soy sauce was perfect for dipping. I think this was my favorite dish of the meal.
Next came the gobdol bibimbob: stone bowls of rice with various toppings and red pepper paste. My companion ordered the ground beef bowl, while I ordered the vegetarian version. I was a bit disappointed that it didn't come with a raw egg on top, as I love to watch it cook and mix in the yolk. But the waiter noted my evident disappointment and brought me a bowl of steamed egg. It wasn't quite the same, but I appreciated the gesture. My dish did contain an ample amount of zucchini, spinach and shreds of shiitake. (My companion would have preferred more beef.)
But with all of those wonderful pan chan, it's really splitting hairs to complain.
Kunjip Restaurant: 9 West 32nd St., (212) 216-9487.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Trattoria L'Incontro
I was all set to order the fettucini with shrimp, mascarpone and leeks, when along came the waiter.
"Wanna hear our specials? We have fifty of them." Fifty!? I thought I'd heard wrong, but the waiter began to recite a list so long that if there were such a thing as the Waiter Olympics, he would've won. The specials included polpette: cheese-egg meatless "meatballs" in a tomato sauce, grilled sardines, a salad of thinly sliced beets with greens in a truffle vinaigrette, a quartered ball of fresh buffalo mozzarella, shrimp mango salad, lobster salad, venison, spinach ravioli, branzino, short ribs, chicken paillard under a tomato-avocado dice, Dover sole in lemon butter, sea bass livornese with mussels, grouper stuffed with spinach and mascarpone. I could have sworn I heard the word "ostrich" in there somewhere, but I can't remember.
I ended up with the very light polpette, and the whole branzino, which I generally prefer to fillet myself; I love the slightly charred skin. This particular specimen was stuffed with fragrant herbs and grilled to perfection. I wasn't a fan of the the side, a stew of mushrooms, tomatoes and peppers, but I didn't need it anyway after I finished poaching from my friends' sole, bass and chicken. The richly sauced sole was presented in a very interesting way: the spine fenced off each half. Maybe this deterred me from taking too much of my friend's entree!
Because we were stuffed beyond all reason at this point, our dessert choices were light: lemon ricotta cheesecake and tangy lemon sorbet. We ended with double espresso.
Although I haven't yet been to Manducatis, as of now, Trattoria L'Incontro is easily the best Italian food I've eaten in Queens.
Trattoria L'Incontro: 21-76 31st St., Astoria, (718) 721-3532.
"Wanna hear our specials? We have fifty of them." Fifty!? I thought I'd heard wrong, but the waiter began to recite a list so long that if there were such a thing as the Waiter Olympics, he would've won. The specials included polpette: cheese-egg meatless "meatballs" in a tomato sauce, grilled sardines, a salad of thinly sliced beets with greens in a truffle vinaigrette, a quartered ball of fresh buffalo mozzarella, shrimp mango salad, lobster salad, venison, spinach ravioli, branzino, short ribs, chicken paillard under a tomato-avocado dice, Dover sole in lemon butter, sea bass livornese with mussels, grouper stuffed with spinach and mascarpone. I could have sworn I heard the word "ostrich" in there somewhere, but I can't remember.
I ended up with the very light polpette, and the whole branzino, which I generally prefer to fillet myself; I love the slightly charred skin. This particular specimen was stuffed with fragrant herbs and grilled to perfection. I wasn't a fan of the the side, a stew of mushrooms, tomatoes and peppers, but I didn't need it anyway after I finished poaching from my friends' sole, bass and chicken. The richly sauced sole was presented in a very interesting way: the spine fenced off each half. Maybe this deterred me from taking too much of my friend's entree!
Because we were stuffed beyond all reason at this point, our dessert choices were light: lemon ricotta cheesecake and tangy lemon sorbet. We ended with double espresso.
Although I haven't yet been to Manducatis, as of now, Trattoria L'Incontro is easily the best Italian food I've eaten in Queens.
Trattoria L'Incontro: 21-76 31st St., Astoria, (718) 721-3532.
Monday, October 15, 2007
The Perfect Autumn Cookie
It's autumn, and I'm craving warm flavors - cinnamon, nutmeg, pumpkin and maple syrup. Fortunately, I've found the perfect treat for this craving: Dancing Deer maple butter leaf and gingerbread acorn cookies. They're available online, at various gourmet markets around the city, and for some reason, at Crate and Barrel. That's where I found them today. I was looking for a wedding present for a friend, but became so distracted by the sight of these cookies that I could hardly continue shopping.
Sunday, October 07, 2007
Gazala's Place
That flour-dusted rolling pin in the window of Gazala's Place isn't there just for show. Gazala Halabi, the Israeli owner-chef of this week-old Mediterranean eatery, is constantly rolling out crepe-thin, whole wheat pita. She's a woman with a very important mission: to show us exactly how delicious homemade Druze-Israeli cuisine can be! Judging from my meal today, she's accomplishing her goal.
Her menu features appetizers like cegar (a rolled pita shell stuffed with spiced mashed potatoes or meat), homemade grape leaves, olive oil goat cheese spread, hummus, cucumber soup, and several salads and sandwiches. There are meat, cheese and spinach pies, and for those craving a heartier meal, there are chicken and lamb kebab platters.
Since I hadn't eaten yet, I decided to go with the brunch special: a glass of rosewater tamarind drink, fluffy scrambled eggs, a mound of nutty hummus indented with a little pool of olive oil, the aforementioned whole wheat pita ("Can I have some more?" I asked), green olives, and green salad topped with tabouli and ripe red tomatoes. While I polished this off, I discussed dessert with Gazala. Date-stuffed semolina cakes? Kenafi? She packed me up a bag of cakes and some osh al-saraia ("It's halfway between sweetened cheese and cream," she explained).
I left with a full stomach, a bag full of desserts and a full heart! Lovingly prepared food has that effect.
Go visit Gazala at Gazala's Place: 709 9th Ave. (212) 245-0709.
Her menu features appetizers like cegar (a rolled pita shell stuffed with spiced mashed potatoes or meat), homemade grape leaves, olive oil goat cheese spread, hummus, cucumber soup, and several salads and sandwiches. There are meat, cheese and spinach pies, and for those craving a heartier meal, there are chicken and lamb kebab platters.
Since I hadn't eaten yet, I decided to go with the brunch special: a glass of rosewater tamarind drink, fluffy scrambled eggs, a mound of nutty hummus indented with a little pool of olive oil, the aforementioned whole wheat pita ("Can I have some more?" I asked), green olives, and green salad topped with tabouli and ripe red tomatoes. While I polished this off, I discussed dessert with Gazala. Date-stuffed semolina cakes? Kenafi? She packed me up a bag of cakes and some osh al-saraia ("It's halfway between sweetened cheese and cream," she explained).
I left with a full stomach, a bag full of desserts and a full heart! Lovingly prepared food has that effect.
Go visit Gazala at Gazala's Place: 709 9th Ave. (212) 245-0709.
Monday, October 01, 2007
Salli Vates' Second Anniversary: L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon
When my companion and I visited Paris this summer, we had wanted to dine at Joël Robuchon's restaurant. (As it was booked solid, we indulged instead at Dominique Bouchet. Heaven help that man if he ever decides to open a restaurant in New York, because with his initials, he'll step right into the DB controversy.)
Although we just missed M. Robuchon, who was in NYC last week for his seasonal reimagining of the menu, we were able to secure a reservation at L'Atelier tonight. The occasion was our second anniversary, which we celebrated with a sublime late summer meal. (I say "late summer" because although it's October, the autumn menu doesn't start till next week.) As we oohed and aahed at each successive course, I felt like a child on Christmas Day... what colorful present would arrive next?
After toasting with glasses of Amancaya Cabernet, we began with a layered foie gras Parmesan foam. Light yellow mini-bubbles mixed with a layer of unctuous, rich crimson. Then came our four chosen small plates (we'd elected to choose our own tasting rather than go with the 8-course). Frog's legs were tiny, delicate fried drumsticks served with dollops of garlic cream and basil pesto. Sugar-sweet langoustine was nestled inside a thin twist wonton skin. Coriander-spiced eggplant rolled with tuna was topped with Parmesan, tiny onion rings, and long strips of chive. A sculpture of buffalo mozzarella and grilled vegetables was also accented with basil pesto, and the zucchini and sundried tomatoes were powerfully flavorful.
(It was difficult not to fill up on the rosemary focaccia and little baguettes. The butter was French Echire.)
While we waited for the main course, our charming server, Opu, indulged us in food and Four Seasons-related trivia. Apparently, a perk for some Four Seasons employees is a free stay in any Four Seasons Hotel! But before we had a chance to ask for a job application, our amadai and rouget arrived. What is amadai? A fish which only swims in Japan. (Ours also swam in a tangy yuzu broth, complimented by fried leeks and lotus root.)
My two red-skinned rouget fillets were surrounded by a little festival of vegetables... browned cauliflower, bright green favas and snow peas, pale artichokes, fennel. My companion's portion looked rather small in comparison, so I made sure to share.
When I saw the dessert menu, I exclaimed, "No chocolate?" Opu explained, "The summer dessert menu does not include a chocolate selection, but don't worry... the pre-dessert is a chocolate cream with milk foam, and the selection of tartelettes includes chocolate ganache and chocolate peanut as well as apple and cinnamon." So, I ordered the feather-light, eggy almond souffle with almond ice cream, almond brittle and poached pears, and stole bites of chocolate ganache from my companion's plate. (Only fair, I thought, as I'd been so generous with my main course!)
Finally, we were presented with a surprise: a plate of miniature chocolate macarons with the words "Bon Anniversaire" drizzled in chocolate. We did get our chocolate fix after all!
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon: Four Seasons Hotel, 57 East 57th St., (212) 350-6658.
Although we just missed M. Robuchon, who was in NYC last week for his seasonal reimagining of the menu, we were able to secure a reservation at L'Atelier tonight. The occasion was our second anniversary, which we celebrated with a sublime late summer meal. (I say "late summer" because although it's October, the autumn menu doesn't start till next week.) As we oohed and aahed at each successive course, I felt like a child on Christmas Day... what colorful present would arrive next?
After toasting with glasses of Amancaya Cabernet, we began with a layered foie gras Parmesan foam. Light yellow mini-bubbles mixed with a layer of unctuous, rich crimson. Then came our four chosen small plates (we'd elected to choose our own tasting rather than go with the 8-course). Frog's legs were tiny, delicate fried drumsticks served with dollops of garlic cream and basil pesto. Sugar-sweet langoustine was nestled inside a thin twist wonton skin. Coriander-spiced eggplant rolled with tuna was topped with Parmesan, tiny onion rings, and long strips of chive. A sculpture of buffalo mozzarella and grilled vegetables was also accented with basil pesto, and the zucchini and sundried tomatoes were powerfully flavorful.
(It was difficult not to fill up on the rosemary focaccia and little baguettes. The butter was French Echire.)
While we waited for the main course, our charming server, Opu, indulged us in food and Four Seasons-related trivia. Apparently, a perk for some Four Seasons employees is a free stay in any Four Seasons Hotel! But before we had a chance to ask for a job application, our amadai and rouget arrived. What is amadai? A fish which only swims in Japan. (Ours also swam in a tangy yuzu broth, complimented by fried leeks and lotus root.)
My two red-skinned rouget fillets were surrounded by a little festival of vegetables... browned cauliflower, bright green favas and snow peas, pale artichokes, fennel. My companion's portion looked rather small in comparison, so I made sure to share.
When I saw the dessert menu, I exclaimed, "No chocolate?" Opu explained, "The summer dessert menu does not include a chocolate selection, but don't worry... the pre-dessert is a chocolate cream with milk foam, and the selection of tartelettes includes chocolate ganache and chocolate peanut as well as apple and cinnamon." So, I ordered the feather-light, eggy almond souffle with almond ice cream, almond brittle and poached pears, and stole bites of chocolate ganache from my companion's plate. (Only fair, I thought, as I'd been so generous with my main course!)
Finally, we were presented with a surprise: a plate of miniature chocolate macarons with the words "Bon Anniversaire" drizzled in chocolate. We did get our chocolate fix after all!
L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon: Four Seasons Hotel, 57 East 57th St., (212) 350-6658.
Sweets News
Attention chocophiles! Some of the best chocolate in France is now available for trans-Atlantic delivery. Click here to order your very own box of luscious Jean-Paul Hevin chocolates. I can't get enough of the 76% cocoa pastilles.
(Unfortunately, the famous chocolate macarons are still reserved for lucky Parisians... and Tokyoites.)
(Unfortunately, the famous chocolate macarons are still reserved for lucky Parisians... and Tokyoites.)
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